10 Ways to Fix Laptop VGA problem Using Rework Station or Heat Gun
Whether you are editing photos, watching a video, enjoying a game or using the latest operating systems, you will always need a superior graphics processor to benefit from improved performance. In recent times, many laptop users have experienced that some of the laptop computer graphics processors and chipsets overheat and fail to function properly. The issue involves the malfunction of the graphic chip manufactured by NVIDIA and installed on the motherboard of the affected laptop models. Certain notebook configurations with NVIDIA GPUs with a certain die/packaging material set have failed at higher than normal rates. Some users also experience graphic problems due to a bad video chip on the laptop motherboard.
NVIDIA laptop graphics card and graphics processor failure symptoms in situations where many laptop graphics cards are overheating and dying include:
- Multiple Images / Duplicate Images
- Random Characters on the Screen
- Lines on the Screen
- Distorted Video
- Video Freezes
- No Video on the Screen
- Scrambled Video
- Vertical and Horizontal Lines
- Flickering Action
- Intermittent Booting
- Blank Screen
- White Lines Running Across Screen
- 3 Beeps
- Take the motherboard out and remove all the plastic parts, surround the graphics chip with aluminium foil (leaving lots of airspace for the surrounding area), and then step the heatgun 220C.
- Using the IR thermometer to measure the temperature.
- Gradually heat the chip up to 220°C (from both sides of the motherboard), and then gradually lower it again.
- Make sure the board is really stable as you don’t want the chip bouncing off or moving when the solder frees up.
- Get a nozzle to narrow down the flow of the heat gun (a pro setup will have different sized heads to heat only the chip).
- You probably need a flux, those joints are dry for a reason and are probably more oxidised now than when made so a purpose made rework flux would give a better chance of success, skoosh in loads then let the excess drain off.
- I can see a conflict with the bottom side pre-heat and the board stability at 1., perhaps a purpose made board with a hole would give access to the bottom and something grippy on top to keep the board stable, even blu-tak.
- Don’t go daft on the bottom side pre-heat, the board wont take the heat and it’s not so necessary on the re-work as most of the joints will be pre-made and so heat from top heating the chip will heat the pads.
- As others have suggested, maybe try this on a scrap board and pick at the chip with a probe as it is heating to see how long it takes for the solder to flow once the full heat is on the chip and only heat your chip for as long as is necessary (+10s max) as chips don’t like reflow temps for very long.
- Finally, if you ever do this on a board that hasn’t been used for a while then you should bake out any moisture in the chip before reflowing. Plastic chips absorb moisture from the air and reflowing them can turn it to steam, ‘popcorning’ the package and destroying the chip. Unlikely to be a problem in your case as you are actively using the machine and the chips will be warm most of the time but worth knowing.